Over the festive period, I read a New York Times article on how 2004 was one of the pinnacle years for the restaurant industry in the Big Apple. That year saw Ken Friedman and April Bloomfield open the Spotted Pig, David Chang introduce ramen and hirata buns in the form of Momofoku, and Danny Meyer launch a burger cart called Shake Shack. It got me thinking that maybe 2013 was London’s turning point and I wonder if 2014 will follow suit?
An eight-hour flight back from Muscat (Oman) seemed like a perfect opportunity to write down some of my thoughts on what the next 12 months may hold for London’s restaurant scene.
Encouraging new blood
More than 120 restaurants opened last year in central London alone, and all shared one problem – staff. There is so much the industry has to offer. However, over the next few years we are going to need a national campaign for attracting people from all walks of life to consider a career in hospitality. We need to showcase the industry to those at school, college and university (and their parents) – it is now deemed a proper career path and not just a summer job to earn some cash.
At the same time we need to develop better training and perks for staff. The recruitment problems of 2013 were not necessarily linked to the lack of applicants but the lack of qualified and experienced applicants. If people who start working in restaurants are not properly trained now it will impact those who are trained by them later on.
Lessons to be learnt
Restaurants need to offer better pay, working hours and more staff benefits. Every restaurateur should read Jeremy King’s article in this month’s Restaurant magazine on the new initiative he has introduced into the kitchens at his restaurants. This month I launched the CODE app that will allow all those who work in the hospitality sector the chance to dine out at some of the best restaurants on special industry discounts, as well as offering a jobs platform.
Secondly, the issue over A3 property premises cannot be ignored. The simple economics of supply and demand means premiums and rents are reaching record levels. Only those restaurateurs and chefs backed by private equity or wealthy investors can afford the rents and premiums that are being commanded in the West End now. Although there is nothing wrong with this, we must be careful not to neglect the importance of the independent restaurant. There is no doubt that we will start to see more independent restaurants opening in zones two and three, as this is their only option. As Russell Norman, owner of Polpo Group, said to me the other day: “The London restaurant scene needs more geographical breadth.”
On a more positive note, it now looks as if Londoners are starting to take an approach to eating out like the New Yorkers. More and more people are eating out during the week, thanks to a number of informal restaurants opening that offer access to those wanting to dine at £20 a head, but not necessarily at a high-street chain.
I think we are only going to see more of this in 2014 and we will start to note the growing importance of the under 35s, as well as the ‘silver surfers’ when it comes to spend-ing disposable income in our restaurants.
Eating out is a new hobby. Retailers are now looking to restaurants and cafés as a way to bolster their operations. We saw Tesco acquire Giraffe last year and it was announced at the end of 2013 that Luke Johnson’s Patisserie Valerie was to open in some Next shops. I have no doubt that more retailers will follow suit, as well as luxury brands, and even publishers such as Condé Nast, which has opened a number of restaurants and bars globally over the past few years.
Importantly, our industry cannot be replicated online. In an age when most sectors are turning to technology, the simple act of breaking bread can only be done in person. We started to see some technology appear in restaurants last year and I am sure more restaurants will get on board with this. Someone remarked to me that the restaurant world has been slow to embrace technology. Maybe we have been, but, from what I see, most diners still want human interaction when it comes to restaurants and are happy to leave technology at the door.
Yau better believe it
I couldn’t finish without mentioning Alan Yau. This year marks the return of the Wagamama and Hakkasan founder to London. Not only is he opening Park Chinois in Mayfair, he is also opening Duck & Rice in Soho, and a Turkish restaurant on Shaftesbury Avenue in the West End. Happy new Yau!
Adam Hyman is founder of CODE rest-aurant consultancy, the publisher of the CODE Bulletin and the CODE app.
