Novel chef Ferran Adria, 43, has come under attack from Josep Maria Fonalleras, a prominent Spanish writer and columnist.
Adria, up until now, could do no wrong as a pioneering chef in the mould of Britain’s Heston Blumenthal, with dishes that include foie gras ice cream and coca butter with crispy ears of rabbit.
But Fonalleras has accused the godfather of Spain’s nueva cocina (nouvelle cuisine) of going over the top “talking about dishes as if he were discussing mathematics rather than cooking”.
Adria will not be too worried. His restaurant, El Bulli, receives tens of thousands of calls from hopefuls trying to secure a reservation. Restaurant magazine voted it best restaurant in the world.
The Sunday Times 05/02/06 page 24
