Zoe Williams visited The Ellington, in Leeds, south Yorkshire, for The Sunday Telegraph’s Stella magazine, where she enjoyed “the most old-fashioned meal” in a long time.
Dishes included rabbit terrine, scallops and black pudding, calf’s liver with cabbage and bacon, which made Williams fall “in love with the cow all over again”, and lemon tart.
AA Gill visited the new Westfield complex in Shepherd’s Bush, west London, for The Sunday Times’s Style magazine, where he inspected the food court, which has 49 restaurants and coffee shops and creperies.
He waited for half an hour in a queue for Pho, a Vietnamese restaurant, while eight people ahead gave tortuous orders.
The next stop was Tiffinbites where he ordered aloo chat, then a duck burger from Croque Gascon. However, he says that while you can go everywhere all at one at a relatively cheap price, he felt a resistance to the whole idea of a food court which he found “a bit Stepford Chefs”.
Gill said there was a privet hedge that ran around everything and he could imagine looking over it and finding Tom Cruise handing out communion ketchup.
Jay Rayner writes about his trip to The Allotment, in Dover, Kent, in The Observer Magazine, where the starters were “a little less than inspired and at the end a meringue was more friable than chewy” but all in all, he concludes Dover used to be a place where you went to get somewhere else but now there was a reason to linger a while.
Corigan’s Mayfair, in the West End of London, gets 18 out of 20 from Terry Durack, in The Independent on Sunday’s The New Review. The critic says owner-chef Richard Corrigan and head chef Christ McGowan work their food not to death, but to life, packing if full of sensual flavours and surprises. He says a table here is “one of Britain’s best”.
The Sunday Telegraph (Stella) 30/11/08 page 94-95
The Sunday Times (Style) 30/11/08 page 70-71
The Observer Magazine 30/11/08 page 85
The Independent on Sunday (The New Review) 30/11/08 page 73
