Bonnie’s cafe in St George, Bristol, was something of an institution. Serving fry-ups from breakfast to dinner and what one reviewer described as “the strongest cup of tea in BS5” it had been going since 1996. But it was no longer breaking even.

A few weeks ago it reopened as a coffee shop and Mediterranean restaurant.

Its owner, Suat “Sam” Tezgel blames changing eating habits and gentrification. “When I came to the UK in 1996 I’d never heard of gluten-free or vegan food,” he said.

“It was all about fried food. I am a chef and wanted to make a living, so this is what I did. But in the last two years especially, the area is changing. I noticed different types of customers coming in. They were asking for more healthy foods like fresh fish and halloumi.”

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