Matthew Norman visits Helene Daroze at The Connaught in London and finds that it is the service rather than the cooking that dominates. He muses: “In the unlikely event of someone complaining about their rognons, a waiter would in all likelihood wheel out a dialysis machine and invite them to wait while straws were drawn in the kitchen to pick the donor.” However, he enjoys the food and praises the staggeringly good foie gras crème brulee with green apple sorbet, one of a large array of amuse-bouches. Restaurant Tristan in Horsham, West Sussex, is the subject of The Independent’s review where John Walsh laments the poor service: “The waiting staff look at you with a kind of thrilled hostility when you arrive and fail to bring you, unless you expressly beg for it, any bread, any menus or any cutlery.” He does find solid English dishes but adds that it was a “curiously hit and miss dinner over-reliant on floury experiments and acidic vegetables”. Giles Coren eats out at Murano in London, the newly opened restaurant run by Angela Hartnett. He waxes lyrical about “awesome” fish dishes including roasted turbot fillet and loin of pork braised in milk, awarding the cooking nine out of 10, but is less convinced about the beige dining room. The Modern Pantry in London EC1 offers Jasper Gerard several dishes tapas style including pan-fried sea bass, cauliflower, couscous, toasted pumpkin seeds and harissa. He praises the sumptuous ice cream and hazelnut and ricotta cheesecake, as well as a reasonably priced wine list. Financial Times critic Claire Wrathall visits Allegro at the Four Seasons Hotel in Prague which is pricey even by London standards, she reports, where starters are £25 and main courses £40. She says the food is very good though, including gnocchi of “sublimely light potato…the best I’ve ever had”. She would gladly dine her often, “if I didn’t have to think about the bill”. The Daily Telegraph (Weekend) 20/09/08 page 18 The Independent (Magazine) 20/09/08 page 45 The Guardian (Weekend Magazine) 20/09/08 page 94-95 The Times (Magazine) 20/09/08 page 87-88 Financial Times (Life & Arts) 20/09/08 page 5