The Comptoir Libanais in Chelsea is located within Duke of York Square, a relatively upmarket mixed retail and foodservice scheme, just off Sloane Square.

It re-opened in September, after being closed for a couple of months, while a new mosaic-inspired floor was laid, the previously fully open plan layout was sub-divided in half with new screening, and more varied seating and table styles introduced.

The improved seating included new perimeter benches and softer chairs, internally and externally. These have the benefits of increasing the restaurant cover numbers and improving comfort for customers.

In addition the lighting has been upgraded, fake flowers added and wall decorations refreshed, with some fun pictures featuring famous faces adorned with Fez hats.

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It is worth noting what the refurbishment did not include. There were no menu changes, no added specific focus on dinner, or other day-part, or on the bar area, and no dedicated attention on looking to enhance the customer service.

As such, this restaurant refurbishment is not on the same scale of more comprehensive brand transformation as with Carluccio’s Fresca programme. Also, the redesign does not have the same clarity of purpose of strengthening the evening trade as with the new look Bill’s sites.

What it does have in common with Bill’s is a downplaying of the retail grocery offer. While assorted non-food items were still available for sale, the range of edible merchandise had been removed.

This is noteworthy, as to my mind the retail bazaar impression previously created helped differentiate the proposition and evoke a stronger sense of a place much further afield.

While I admit I was not ‘transported’ (and I have had, and much enjoyed, the pleasure of visiting the Middle East) what this store makeover did succeed with is in charming with a more relaxed, fun and comfortable café/restaurant feel than previous Comptoir Libanais restaurants I have visited. It is genuinely a place I could enjoy visiting and dwelling in across multiple day-parts.

To be a successful multiple day-part operator is tricky and needs several elements to come together. At the outset there has to be an affordability to the offer to help attract a higher than market-average frequency of visit.

This needs to be supported by a strong, and recognised, focus on fresh and healthy food, that includes a decent breakfast offer, and which is of course served in a friendly manner and in an attractive environment a customer is happy to spend time in.

The new look Comptoir Libanais achieves many of these elements, and does it better than previous brand iterations. However, what I suspect still holds the brand back is greater mass market acceptance of the delights of Middle Eastern cuisine.

With rising adventurism and the favourable growth trends in rising numbers of plant-based dietary adopters, a consumer tipping point is getting ever closer. The future is bright for the flavours of Lebanon, and Comptoir Libanais is well placed to take advantage.