Matthew Norman unearths a gem, giving Moran’s in Dore, Sheffield, a nine out 10, after initially declaring the restaurant just the sort of place he would normally walk straight past.
A self-styled wine bar in a single-storey building on an unprepossessing parade in an affluent suburb of Sheffield, he describes chef Bryan Moran’s food as “cooking of the highest quality”.
The menu combines ultra-earthy dishes with the slightly voguish and fancy. His dining companion opting for the traditional said that “this may be the finest fish and chips I’ve ever had.”
Giles Coren, writing in The Times, visits The Garrick’s Head pub in Bath, scoring the place seven out of 10, including a sub-score of nine out of 10 for the meat. The hostelry, a new venture by the owners of the ‘excellent’ King William on the edge of the town, follows the first pub’s model of robust English pub cooking, chunky 18th-century tavern elegance and big, well-sourced dishes, this time based around a fantastic charcoal grill.
The meat is all free range or organic and comes from Somerset or Wiltshire, the cheese is from local diaries, the vegetables from Bath market gardens, and there are four real ales and two Somerset ciders.
Writing in The Sunday Telegraph, Zoe Williams goes to Artisan Restaurant in Hessle, East Yorkshire, where the food is "special" but "a wee bit pricey", with prawns that "could have been Quorn" but a rump of local lamb that was "pink and hearty and well tasty".
In The Independent on Sunday, Terry Durack visits Sushinho on the King's Road, London, a Japanese-Brazilian restaurant, which he describes as a "clubby bar that does food". As a dinner destination, he says, it's "less appealing".
