There were many unexpectedly positive health consequences to the pandemic: socially distanced workouts in the park; a boom in commuting by bike.

A move to Londoners drinking less wine but choosing better-quality bottles is, however, one of the more rarely documented trends but one that, like a vine after careful nurturing, is now bearing fruit with a bumper crop of wine-bar launches in the capital.

“Covid made people drink differently,” says Dan Long, the owner of Dan’s wine bar in Dalston and, as of this month, Ken’s in Exmouth Market. “All the extra spare time meant that people at home were open to trying new things. That did wine a massive favour. Now every time I go on Instagram, I see a new wine bar opening in London.”

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