The Observer’s Jay Rayner dined at the eco-friendly Waterhouse in Shoreditch, north London, where all the electricity comes from renewable sources, waste is dealt with by wormeries and composters, and there is a paperless loo which he says “could be thrilling if a squirt up the jacksy is your idea of a good night out”.
The food is not pretty, but what is important is that it tastes good. Both the ingredients and execution are top notch. A tranche of sustainable cod was steamed to the point where a tap from a knife was all that as needed to make the pearly flakes release each other.
Terry Durack, of The Independent on Sunday, awards 16 points out of 20 to the Thiptara at the Peninsula Hotel in Bangkok. It is not your average hotel dining room, but a wooden-decked lushy-tropical garden nestled under a giant banyan tree. It is also the perfect setting for chef Sumalee Boonek’s traditional Thai “home cooking”.
There are, Durack admits, more exciting and authentic places to eat in Bangkok. But Thiptara is his tip for the best “soft landing”, making it easy to sample the classics in a friendly setting with wine, music and river views.
If Sumalee were encouraged to develop her skills further, it could become a truly great Thai restaurant.
The Sunday Times's Rod Liddle bridled at the "tasting menu" when he visited the Michelin-starred Harrow at Little Bedwyn, near Marlborough, Wiltshire. Sarcastically, he says that soon McDonald's or the Botulo Burger Bar in Peckham will also be offering taster menus. But everything else was delectable.
At least three dishes on the menu were as good as anything Liddle has ever eaten. The belly of pork was "about as perfect as it gets"
The Observer 23/03/08 (Magazine) page 79
The Independent on Sunday 23/03/08 (The New Review) page 51
The Sunday Times 23/03/08 (style) pages 52 & 53
