The Independent on Sunday’s Terry Durack says Quilon, the Michelin-starred Indian restaurant in London’s Buckingham Gate, is “just plain annoying” for doing some dishes so well that you almost forget you are sat in a boring room paying high prices for overly refined cooking. Durack likes the fact that veteran chef Sriram Aylur, who patrols the restaurant, prepares healthier, more modern Indian cuisine without adultering it with foreign ingredients like foie gras. But he wishes Aylur would “rough it up a bit” and stop pussy-footing around with the heat. The restaurant is awarded 14 marks out of 20. The Independent on Sunday 02/03/08 (The New Review) page 59

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