Gordon Ramsay in New York is “a safe bet for lovely food” but nobody is breaking any new ground, writes Kate Spicer in The Sunday Times’s Style magazine.
She says everything is beautifully executed from the braised halibut with Kumamoto oysters, white asparagus and caviar, to the slow-baked quince with creme catalan and a Pedro Ximinex Sherry gelee.
But the restaurant critic wonders if in trying to keep perfection consistent across his empire, Ramsay is denying diners some of the fireworks he and his chefs are capable of.
She awards the restaurant four stars.
The Sunday Times (Style magazine ) 23/12/07 page 46-47
