Giles Coren visited Market in Camden Town, London, in The Times Magazine and thought everything was “lovely jubbly” with its largely free range menu.
He says it is a good example of a new type of restaurant in England “where a really good chef gets hold of really good ingredients and cooks simple, mostly British things.”
He had “great” Yorkshire pudding filled with rare roast beef and awarded the restaurant 8.5 out of 10.
Meanwhile, John Walsh in the Independent Magazine ate at The Landau at the Langham Hotel in London, one of Europe’s oldest deluxe hotels.
He thought the restaurant valued “special effects over coherent cooking.” He was also not impressed by the “grazing menu” offered by head chef Andrew Turner.
He said the Dover sole resembled a “Bernard Matthews turkey fillet.” He gave the food a two out of five rating.
Matthew Norman in The Guardian Weekend magazine ventured to the exclusive Sandbanks in Poole, Dorset, to sample the delights of Café Shore but wished he hadn’t.
His crayfish risotto starter was more like “Batchelor's Savoury Rice “ and main course of monkfish had the texture of an “unnaturally hot… overcooked fish finger.”
He said that while the restaurant may be a “destination joint for the WAGS of Portsmouth FC” it was “a gruesome paean to the victory of money over sense.”
Mark Palmer in the Daily Telegraph Weekend section went to The Horseshoe Inn at Eddlestone in Peebleshire in the Scottish borders.
He disappointingly finds there is nothing very Scottish about it and that the “hoity- toity menu makes no reference to anything local.”
He concludes the lack of fellow diners, the warm white wine and the Provence-style menu make for a less than successful evening.
The Times Magazine 26/01/08 page 57
The Independent Magazine 26/01/08 page 39
The Guardian Weekend magazine 26/01/08 page 70
The Daily Telegraph Weekend 26/01/08 page 20
