UK fish and chip shops are branching out into lesser-known species, such as hake or sea trout, and offering smaller portions, as the rising price of often Russian-caught fish pushes makers of the classic British meal to the point of closure.

The usually family-run businesses, which prospered as households turned to takeaways during Covid-19 lockdowns, are now grappling with surging energy prices and labour shortages alongside higher costs for ingredients.

The situation has turned many shops — which operate on wafer-thin margins — into close watchers of the war in Ukraine that has hit supplies of vital ingredients, including white fish and cooking oils.

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