Casa do Frango: ‘Nobody is doing what we're doing’

Algarvian authenticity and churrasqueira flavours sit at the heart of Casa do Frango, a charcoal-grilled chicken haven and slice of Portugal brought to London.

Yet the concept has more in common with British culinary culture than many might think.

Literally meaning ‘chicken house’ in Portuguese, Casa do Frango was inspired by the piri piri chicken shacks dotting Southern Portuguese terrain, which exploded in popularity following the influx of British tourists in the late 20^th century.

Founded as an ode to these restaurants, the London-based concept has become a firm favourite for the simplicity of its star dish and the near-universal appeal of grilled chicken.

With three London restaurants and a few more on the way, MJMK Restaurants – also encompassing Kol and Lisboeta – recently took home the prize for Best Emerging Concept for their flagship brand at MCA’s Retailers’ Retailer Awards this year.

Injecting a kick into Portuguese cuisine

The restaurant is inspired by churrasqueiras - traditional brick barbecues - and tascas - causal Portuguese restaurants, Marco Mendes, co-founder and one half of MJMK, tells MCA.

“Following the revolution, a return of people from colonies injected a kick to Portuguese cuisine. Piri-piri had long been a favourite seasoning of Portuguese communities in Mozambique and Angola. When these countries gained independence in the 1970s, the Portuguese retornados arrived back to Portugal with piri-piri in tow, and so, Frango Piri-Piri was born.

“It was a convivial and affordable opportunity for locals to eat out of home.”

The presence of the British further popularised chicken and chips. And founders Mendes and Jake Kasumov noticed nobody in London was doing quite the same thing when launching in 2018.

While Nando’s was a major national chain, “the distinctions between the two are vast,” Mendes says. Casa cooks over wood charcoal, as traditionally done in Portugal, while Nando’s casual environment and delivery element, though a “great business”, is different to the MJMK vision. “I don’t know if there’s anything quite like us,” he says. 

Casa’s menu weaves in Portuguese staples like prawn and chorizo, while authenticity is crucial, with most recipes based on Portuguese tradition. The piri piri glaze is Casa’s own secret recipe, as is the fiery casa sauce developed for the British palate.

The evolution

Although vegan and vegetarian dishes seem tailored to cater to London tastes, Mendes emphasises that Portuguese cuisine has evolved to become more accommodating. The hispi cabbage, a mainstay on a rising number of menus, is placed next to batatas fritas, Portuguese fries.

“We’ve done a few different things over time,” he says. Indeed, Casa began as a one-floor operation in London Bridge and introduced a pasteleria bakery concept soon after, offering pastel de nata and other treats to go.

The pasteleria evolved into a carefully thought out Portuguese dessert menu, part of the restaurant offer. Another dish was the arroz de polvo, octopus rice, which proved to be too adventurous for British palates despite gaining a small cult following.

However, the core dishes of African rice, chorizo, and piri-piri garlic prawns – rounded off by piri piri chicken, the star of the show – have remained.

“This ability to adapt to and understand the customer is at the core of Casa’s offering, and indeed the heart of Portuguese hospitality.”

Reinventing the neighbourhood restaurant 

Casa opened in Piccadilly in October 2022 and will launch its fourth site in Victoria in June, with plans for another 10 on the way. The universality and accessibility of its proposition means many of the capital’s neighbourhoods might have a new local chicken shop to frequent.

“We want to be a neighbourhood restaurant,” Mendes says. “Out strategy is predicated on the idea that one should be able to go every week.”

With sites in Shoreditch, London Bridge, and Piccadilly, much of London remains untouched by the concept. MJMK have their eye on the locals of affluent west London, like Chelsea, Kensington, and Notting Hill, to the tourists and shoppers of Covent Garden, residents of King’s Cross, and workers of Canary Wharf.

“We’d like to be close enough to all the major population centres of central London,” Mendes adds. “We only have three sites but it’s exciting to see Casa is well known and vetted by lots of Londoners.

“National expansion would certainly be on the cards, and we’ve had conversations about going international.”

MJMK beyond Casa

As well as Casa, MJMK has some more high-end chef-led propositions in its portfolio. “We love our concepts equally and we love them for different reasons,” says Mendes.

Kol’s Mexican-inspired, relaxed fine dining environment makes it “very special and one of a kind, effectively,” with creativity woven into its supply chain and every aspect of its concept.

Chef-patron Nuno Mendes’ Lisboeta, meanwhile, is still in its infancy. “It’s effectively telling the story of Lisbon and Portuguese cuisine…there’s lots coming from Lisboeta over the coming years.”

MJMK is also the backer for AngloThai – from restaurateurs John and Desiree Chantarasak – which will open in Fitzrovia this year after nearly of decade of sold-out pop-ups. The concept showcases Thai flavours and techniques, cooked from a British landscape.

Another project La Rampa, a Havana-inspired bar concept, recently closed down, so the group can focus on on the growth of its core, casual dining business and chef-led restaurants. 

Weathering the storm

Energy costs are higher than they used to be and remain a primary concern in MJMK’s expansion plans, with wage inflation also squeezing margins.

“We haven’t raised our prices significantly yet. We’re hoping to see food inflation go down by the end of the year,” Mended said. “We’re trying to weather the storm.”

Storm clouds or otherwise, Casa is confident its differentiated offer will help it remain in a class of its own. 

“I don’t think anybody is doing exactly what we’re doing in London at the moment. We’re proud to be celebrating Portuguese food in an authentic way.”