Smoke taint signals danger for winemakers. California producers are on a crash course in coping strategies — taught by their Australian counterparts, according to the FT
One of the fascinating things about wine, unlike most of the things we eat or drink, is that every year produces wines that are obviously different. The reputation of some combinations of region and vintage, both clearly identified on the label, are irrevocably blighted — sometimes even before harvest.
The 2021 growing season in Burgundy was such a nightmare for vignerons, who had to cope with frost, persistent mildew and a dispiritingly long wet, cool summer, that some merchants and consumers decided in advance that the wines would taste dire too. More fool them.
Similarly, the 2014 growing season in Barolo and Barbaresco saw unparalleled rain, leading some importers and many fans of the Nebbiolo grape associated with the region to pass on that year.
Yet the wines turned out to exhibit delightful finesse. It all depends on the skill of the producers and how selective they are in what they put in the bottle — which is to say, the extent to which they are prepared to weather a financial hit.
To read the full story in the FT, please click here (subscription required)
