The first dish to be set in front of me is a small, glistening square of raw whale blubber with the shiny black skin still attached.

It’s mattak, a delicacy that has the status of comfort food for native Greenlanders. But this raw blubber and skin has been brushed with flowering-currant-leaf oil, and sits on an elegant block of glazed porcelain made especially for Koks restaurant. The executive chef, 33-year-old Poul Andrias Ziska, is standing beside my table, waiting for my verdict.

‘Most people are nervous about putting the blubber and skin into their mouth. It’s normal,’ he says reassuringly. Once I’ve popped the whole cube in, I taste its complex nutty flavour, without a trace of fishiness or the expected power of raw fat. Truth be told, I’d quite like a bigger helping. But there are 17 more courses to come, and I need to leave space for the reindeer-heart tartare.

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