The Railway Hotel in Faversham, Kent, is a modest, dank, red-brick Victorian building with brown swirly walls and a dodgy carpet in the pub. But, says Jasper Gerard in The Daily Telegraph, the charming Dining Room restaurant is something else. It doesn’t deserve a Michelin star yet, but it was encouraging to find chefs Anthony North, late of the Connaught, and Johnny Butterworth, of the Bluebird, showing such “roaring ambition”. Gerard was, however, disappointed with the wine list, selected by landlord Shepherd Neame. It was cheap and belonged to a pub that only serves micro-waved chilli con carne. It was as disrespectful to the chefs as it was to diners. The Independent’s Tracey McLeod was disappointed with the Royal China Club in Baker Street, west London. The chain of cheaper Royal China restaurants scattered across the capital serve “pretty damned good food” and probably the best dim sum around. But their more luxurious sister restaurant left McLeod unimpressed. There were some good individual dishes from the mainly Cantonese menu, but others were bland and the meal didn’t quite come together. The overall impression was of competence rather than brilliance. It was a restaurant for a banquet rather than an intense and intimate sensory experience. Matthew Norman, of The Guardian, loved the Ukrainian food at Divo in central London. He described it as one of those rare restaurants that wishes to please and anyone who thinks of eastern European cuisine as “lumpen and overbearing” will find it a revelation. The Daily Telegraph 10/05/08 (Weekend) page 18 The Independent 10/05/08 (Magazine) page 51 The Guardian 10/05/08 (Weekend) pages 70&71