Restaurant reviewers have been branded alcoholic and corrupt snobs by Luke Johnson, who owns The Ivy and Le Caprice restaurants. He claims many of them specialise in rude reviews, making readers laugh at the chef's efforts in "whichever establishment is being pilloried". While that might work as "entertainment", as criticism such "diatribes are beneath contempt". Some critics, adds Johnson, chairman of Signature, only give good write-ups to restaurants run by "friends or relatives". But the reviewers are hitting back. One says Johnson is "not even a restaurateur, he's just a money man". The Sunday Telegraph 21/11/04 page 3