"Someone cooking with their appetite rather than their head" is how The Observer's Jay Rayner sums up 22 Mill Street, in the Devonshire village of Chagford, which chef Duncan Walker recently sold to the owners of a hotel and restaurant in nearby Tavistock. Villagers claim a certain finesse has gone. Rayner admits it may not be "quite as extraordinary" but it is still a very nice restaurant indeed. It celebrates "quiet virtues" and Rayner says that is more than good enough for him. Terry Durack, of The Independent on Sunday, gives a score of 15 out of 20 to Le Café Anglais in Porchester Gardens, London W8. There is a lot to like, he says, in a restaurant essentially drawn up and driven by a home-grown chef with intelligence and integrity. But it needs more time to come to grips with the vagaries of the rotisserie and bed down its try-hard-but-very-trying waiting staff. When it does, adds Durack, it could grow into one of the most-loved joints in town. The Observer 16/12/07 (Magazine) page 73 The Independent on Sunday 16/12/07 page 55