The Observer's Jay Rayner dined at Bibendum in London's Fulham Road to celebrate the 20th birthday of the restaurant launched by Sir Terence Conran ­­– and came away disappointed. He wonders if the place was having an off night, but at £150 for two "you simply aren't allowed one of those". The room had a pleasing buzz, but too many tables had been crammed in and there was a lack of urgency in the service. Over all, the meal left a nasty taste in Rayner's mouth. There are now, he says, a bunch of places doing much more cheaply what Bibendum does so expensively. Terry Durack awards Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester 16 points out of 20. He says it is not Ducasse's best restaurant, which is in Monte Carlo. But it is still a marvellous manifestation of the French meaning of the term saviour-faire, literally "to have the knowledge what to do". The Observer 02/12/07 (Magazine) pages 68-71 The Independent on Sunday 02/12/07 page 65