What the critics say: Terry Durack in The Independent on Sunday lavishes praise on Spring, a small restaurant in Paris run by American chef Daniel Rose. There is no menu and no choice, just a set four-course £24-a-head dinner that changes daily and all 16 diners have to arrive by 8.30pm when the food is served. Rose doubles as maitre d', and triples as sommelier with his only other employee a single waitress. What Rose does, says Durack, is very simple. He puts together a beautifully fresh harmonious meal from ingredients he has bought at the market that day, before serving it generously but modestly in a room made all the more charming for its pared-down lack of detail. The Observer's food critic Jay Rayner was similarly impressed with Restaurant Nathan Outlaw, at the Marina Villa Hotel in Fowey, Cornwall. He describes the food as smart without being overwrought. While not cheap, the cooking is confident and the setting, overlooking the Fowey estuary, is beautiful. The Independent on Sunday 15/07/07 (The New Review) page 61 The Observer 15/07/07 (Magazine) pages 56 & 57