Chef Gordon Ramsay û described as "brilliant and mercurial" û has signed a contract to take over the restaurant at Claridges.

Although he is lending his name, he will not be cooking every day at the top London hotel.

Columnist Damien McCrystal says the restaurant's grand surroundings "do not entirely compensate for the poor food and occasional sightings of cockroaches".

But he warns that Ramsay's "famously hot temper ... may not go down too well with the disgustingly obese mid-western Americans hoping for their steaks to be turned to cinder".

Sunday Business 4/03/01 page 20